A.K.A. Archaeology of Mind

That November I met Isaac Niemand aka Frank Kalero aka Saul Tiff aka JealousGuy aka Tico Tico. Art mastery in different names. Isaac Niemand was the filmmaker, Frank Kalero the publisher, Saul Tiff the cinematographer, JealousGuy the producer and Tico Tico the DJ. One man, different avatars. He was like Shiva in Shiva-city. We had the idea of shooting an experimental film in Benaras about a bear stuck in the gulleys trying to make it to the otherside to be with his friend, a bird. We found some inexpensive costumes from Chowk and then set out to shoot. I was going to be the protagonist and the antagonist. I was rewiring my brain to become an animal again.

It was difficult being furry and black in Benaras. People crowded to see what the fuss was about. We shot in the narrowest of gulleys to show claustrophobia. We shot in Chet Singh Ghat in the old fort, we scaled the walls, jumped to the otherside to show the bear waving at his friend, the bird, on the otherside. Eventually when the bear makes it to the river he gets help from a lion-headed boatman to take him to the other side only to be disappointed to see a mirror-reflection of himself in the water. A mirage... That was the plot. It was based around the "The grass is greener on the other side" thinking. The film was shot with a Canon HV30 and handmade lens, something that Baba Kalero made himself. He was a do-it-yourself filmmaker, he had his own concept dolly's and other little inexpensive tricks for the struggling filmmaker to use. Kalero had something special. He was unpredictable. One day he was masala rider, riding around on his bullet looking for other Shiva riders for another of his documentaries on the quirky bikers of Benaras. Another day he was shooting for his documentary on Benaras. For this one, he interviewed me and I decided to be in costume. I spoke of spirituality in Benaras with a straightface wearing a bear costume. These were the best times of our life. Everyday was fresh with vital energy from Ganga. the sun and the sky worked in collaboration to bring us fresh vibes from the earth. We visited the wonderful Aum cafe every morning to wire ourselves into the wifi and have hummus and cafe mocha. I never wanted this dream to end. Cycling around in the narrowest of gulleys, Kalero and me became the best of friends. Inseparable. I stayed in Gabriel's room and Kalero remained my neighbour. Shivacafe was in full bloom. This is where I met Gael Braejeul, one of Kalero's Shiva riders...